What do YOU look for in a knife?

[Smith&Steward]

Hello all, my name is Matthew Tellheart. I make knives, either forged or stock removal. As well as jewelry but that's not part of this post and hopefully discourse. I believe that a knife carried everyday must have utility as a tool first. I also understand there are plenty of reasons for carrying a specific knife for a specific job, whatever that job may be. My goal is to make an heirloom quality product for a price that the working individual can afford and depend on.

Wether you are a professional end user, sportsman, knife enthusiast, I would like to hear what it is you look for in choosing a knife. If you have a specific requirement, personal preference, etc. Even features you avoid and why will be beneficial. Please be specific and honest with your use cases. This will help me understand what fits the real world demands and expectations of real end users.

Thank you for your time. I look forward to hearing from all of you. Have a blessed day.

 

[Matt Landfair]

@DauntlessMFG, LT Wright, and Craig Caudill have been making functional knives that really appeal to me. As I get older and better understand mission drives the gear, the more I appreciate simplicity. I also found really simple and functional working knives from Varusteleka. I wish I had a better defined answer.

 

[John Dunbar]

For everyday carry and use a medium sized two or three bladed folder like the Case or Schrade like dad and gramps carried is all I've ever wanted or needed. I will grab a Buck 110 if I need anything larger.

I have been collecting pocket knives from Great Eastern Cutlery for many years and do enjoy the beauty of a fine built, high quality bone handled pocket knife.

 

[Smith&Steward]

@DauntlessMFG, LT Wright, and Craig Caudill have been making functional knives that really appeal to me. As I get older and better understand mission drives the gear, the more I appreciate simplicity. I also found really simple and functional working knives from Varusteleka. I wish I had a better defined answer.

Thank you for your response. Your answer definitely has value. Function over flash is my preference for most things as well, though I do have some " gentlemen's knives" that don't look out of place when wearing a suit... Mission drives the gear

 

[Smith&Steward]

For everyday carry and use a medium sized two or three bladed folder like the Case or Schrade like dad and gramps carried is all I've ever wanted or needed. I will grab a Buck 110 if I need anything larger.

I have been collecting pocket knives from Great Eastern Cutlery for many years and do enjoy the beauty of a fine built, high quality bone handled pocket knife.

I appreciate your response. All the input I can get has value, thanks for taking the time to post. Those simple folders last for years and have great utility. I've started to work with bone and antler and have found it difficult, which has given me even more appreciation for the skill it takes to work with those materials.

 

[Joe _K]

Personally I would like a general purpose knife that has a blade that is as long as the handle, a full tang corrosion resistant blade that is durable enough, but easily sharpened in the field, user swappable grip/scales to fit different hand sizes or intended uses, and the most often overlooked aspect, a great sheath that allows multiple ways and types of carry.

Preferred Blade types:
Drop Point
Straight Back
Reverse Tanto (In the Benchmade 940 style)
Japanese Tanto

 

[Smith&Steward]

Personally I would like a general purpose knife that has a blade that is as long as the handle, a full tang corrosion resistant blade that is durable enough, but easily sharpened in the field, user swappable grip/scales to fit different hand sizes or intended uses, and the most often overlooked aspect, a great sheath that allows multiple ways and types of carry.

Preferred Blade types:
Drop Point
Straight Back
Reverse Tanto (In the Benchmade 940 style)
Japanese Tanto

Thanks for your specific response. Honestly I didn't really understand the modern concept of swappable scales on a knife, but you bring up a very good point regarding them. The ability to change the grip for the task at hand, for example; a textured and contoured grip would work better with gloves in the winter, than a smoother palm swell design, which would be nice in the warmer seasons. I agree that the sheath is a very overlooked component in modern production knives.

 

[Greg "Sully" Sullivan]

I was raised to carry two knives. One for utility, and the other a battle blade. The utility knife is used for all around day to day things like cutting open boxes etc. The utility blade needs to be sharp, and due to its daily use for an all around utility blade, it will most likely get neglected and abused like a red headed stepchild, so it needs to be able to be fairly rust resistant, easily sharpened, and durable. I have several utility knives that I carry, they vary from Gerber and Leatherman multi tools, Coldsteel folders, Ontario folders, etc. When I'm out in the woods hiking, hunting, etc, I also carry a Rat type knife from various makers like Swamprat, Ontario, Esee, as I find they are a nice size and shape, the micarta type scales work well and are durable. I've seen a few paracord wrapped handles on fixed blades, which I am not sure is that durable, so for me I prefer something like a micarta scales.

I've seen a few people get cut up hands when field dressing a deer. A fixed blade or folding blade needs to have a good grip so the hand won't slip. This becomes extremely important if your hands become covered in anthying slippery like blood, snow & ice, etc.

The battle blade is one that I carry daily, it is never used for any daily utility tasks as that is what a utility blade is for. For me the battle blade should be razor sharp on its edge, and be able to hold that edge when having to be used for things like cutting seat belts, web gear, or for defensive purposes. Most times I carry a folder, as it's easier to conceal and carry, and usally doesn't stand out to grab attention like a fixed blade will. I was put into Zero Tolerance by a student in a class that was a professional knife sharpener and teaches it, who much likes the steel that they use.

I have several Emerson folders. I got a CQC7 several years ago with a Tanto tip. This particular knife didn't have much retention to keep the blade folded. Several of us were in LA doing some SWAT training, and went out one evening, so I figured I wouldn't carry it clipped to my pocket so as not to draw attention to myself, so I put this knife into my pocket. Sometime during the evening I reached into my pocket, and the tip of the blade was sligntly opened, which I didn't realize, and when I reached into my pocked I ran my finger right into the slightly opened tanto tip, which cut a long super deep cut the length of my finger. So after that experience, I prefer to have some type slightly spring force keeping the blade folded so it doesn't unintentionally or accidentally open.

What I have experienced in the past with a few different fixed blade Military type knives, is that the blade material was very hard to sharpen to get a good edge.

So this is my $.02


CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
SLR15 Rifles
TheDefensiveEdge.com
(763) 712-0123

 

[Smith&Steward]

I was raised to carry two knives. One for utility, and the other a battle blade. The utility knife is used for all around day to day things like cutting open boxes etc. The utility blade needs to be sharp, and due to its daily use for an all around utility blade, it will most likely get neglected and abused like a red headed stepchild, so it needs to be able to be fairly rust resistant, easily sharpened, and durable. I have several utility knives that I carry, they vary from Gerber and Leatherman multi tools, Coldsteel folders, Ontario folders, etc. When I'm out in the woods hiking, hunting, etc, I also carry a Rat type knife from various makers like Swamprat, Ontario, Esee, as I find they are a nice size and shape, the micarta type scales work well and are durable. I've seen a few paracord wrapped handles on fixed blades, which I am not sure is that durable, so for me I prefer something like a micarta scales.

I've seen a few people get cut up hands when field dressing a deer. A fixed blade or folding blade needs to have a good grip so the hand won't slip. This becomes extremely important if your hands become covered in anthying slippery like blood, snow & ice, etc.

The battle blade is one that I carry daily, it is never used for any daily utility tasks as that is what a utility blade is for. For me the battle blade should be razor sharp on its edge, and be able to hold that edge when having to be used for things like cutting seat belts, web gear, or for defensive purposes. Most times I carry a folder, as it's easier to conceal and carry, and usally doesn't stand out to grab attention like a fixed blade will. I was put into Zero Tolerance by a student in a class that was a professional knife sharpener and teaches it, who much likes the steel that they use.

I have several Emerson folders. I got a CQC7 several years ago with a Tanto tip. This particular knife didn't have much retention to keep the blade folded. Several of us were in LA doing some SWAT training, and went out one evening, so I figured I wouldn't carry it clipped to my pocket so as not to draw attention to myself, so I put this knife into my pocket. Sometime during the evening I reached into my pocket, and the tip of the blade was sligntly opened, which I didn't realize, and when I reached into my pocked I ran my finger right into the slightly opened tanto tip, which cut a long super deep cut the length of my finger. So after that experience, I prefer to have some type slightly spring force keeping the blade folded so it doesn't unintentionally or accidentally open.

What I have experienced in the past with a few different fixed blade Military type knives, is that the blade material was very hard to sharpen to get a good edge.

So this is my $.02


CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
SLR15 Rifles
TheDefensiveEdge.com
(763) 712-0123

Thank you for your thought out and specific response. Your two cents is certainly appreciated. I had a similar experience with a folder opening in my pocket as a Boy Scout, which turned me off from liner-lock folders all together. I have found the cord wrapped handles to be comfortable when done well but as you suspected, they are not very durable when put to hard use. I like to cover paracord, leather lace, or braid with a Marine Epoxy like West Systems G Flex. This makes it much more rigid and long lasting.

 

[Carrion]

I second the above comments of two knives.... one for every day whatever, but then there's the second all business AKA my life may depend on it blade.

Currently (on duty) a Benchmade SOCP Mini fills that second role. Nothing to open, easy to deploy, doesn't get used for anything else. Also, I like the finger hole on it to aid in retention (a tactical consideration for my current position) which mimics my larger karambits and thyrim switchback on the handheld flashlight.

I reeeeaallyy like Benchmade's opening mechanism ( i think they trademark it AXIS lock or something). Can open close pretty easy with one hand and its simple and easy to clean.

 

[Carrion]

I second the above comments of two knives.... one for every day whatever, but then there's the second all business AKA my life may depend on it blade.

Currently (on duty) a Benchmade SOCP Mini fills that second role. Nothing to open, easy to deploy, doesn't get used for anything else. Also, I like the finger hole on it to aid in retention (a tactical consideration for my current position) which mimics my larger karambits and thyrim switchback on the handheld flashlight.

I reeeeaallyy like Benchmade's opening mechanism ( i think they trademark it AXIS lock or something). Can open close pretty easy with one hand and its simple and easy to clean.

 

[Smith&Steward]

I second the above comments of two knives.... one for every day whatever, but then there's the second all business AKA my life may depend on it blade.

Currently (on duty) a Benchmade SOCP Mini fills that second role. Nothing to open, easy to deploy, doesn't get used for anything else. Also, I like the finger hole on it to aid in retention (a tactical consideration for my current position) which mimics my larger karambits and thyrim switchback on the handheld flashlight.

I reeeeaallyy like Benchmade's opening mechanism ( i think they trademark it AXIS lock or something). Can open close pretty easy with one hand and its simple and easy to clean.

Thanks for your response I certainly appreciate it. I tend to steer toward the fixed blades these days for most applications, critical or leisure alike. As my lifestyle changed and as a result my wardrobe has changed over the years and is cycling back from cargo pants all the time to plain Dickies pocket space constraints caused me to ditch the pocket folder for a more all around belt worn fixed blade.
By the looks of your picture you and my brother have a similar setup. He's got a smaller Osbourne folder though. Benchmade is a good value for your money, if you are not prone to losing them...

 

[Papabear2547]

I look for something conveniently sized and practical for separating things efficiently. It’s not a prybar or a hatchet. If they look pretty or are enjoyable for other reasons that still a plus for me, but not if they distract from the primary use. I think most knives are too large for what they are, less is often more. My favorite and most carried knives are a Milwaukee folding utility knife (I like the mini one or the one with the built in screwdriver best), and the Amtac minuteman (or ones similar to it).

For a folding/task knife I want something small and sharp that won’t draw unnecessary attention or alarm in public. It should be small and lightweight. This knife should ideally have a safe and easy to use one handed mechanism, and be easy to sharpen but hold an edge. It will be used for most tasks.

I also like a small fixed blade for social purposes and larger tasks. I want something that I can do most large knife things with. It should have a 3-4.5” blade, and a grip large enough to get a comfortable full handed purchase on; without adding a lot of extra overall length. The sheath, although one can be custom ordered separately, is the largest factor in how often I will carry it often or not. I like either a deep carry pocket or standard sheath with a durable steel (dcc) clip that can be carried in a pocket or tucked iwb or on Mille webbing. I slightly prefer a single edged blade, but a false swedge or dagger is ok. I like a broader leaf style shape, but a straight triangle is fine. Flat grips (as opposed to large ovals or a coke bottle) will ensure I can easily index the knife and it won’t twist in my hand. For a single edge I like a shape that makes it obvious which side is sharp, less important with a dagger; but either way it should be comfortable any way I grip it, ice pick or standard, edge top or bottom. I prefer a convex grind, but I’m not picky. The edge will eventually become convexed as I use and sharpen it. My favorite fixed blade is the amtac minuteman and a custom version with more of a leaf shape my friend made for me. They both incorporate a small hook at the end of the grip which makes them easier to grasp and draw from a deep carry position.

 

[Smith&Steward]

I look for something conveniently sized and practical for separating things efficiently. It’s not a prybar or a hatchet. If they look pretty or are enjoyable for other reasons that still a plus for me, but not if they distract from the primary use. I think most knives are too large for what they are, less is often more. My favorite and most carried knives are a Milwaukee folding utility knife (I like the mini one or the one with the built in screwdriver best), and the Amtac minuteman (or ones similar to it).

For a folding/task knife I want something small and sharp that won’t draw unnecessary attention or alarm in public. It should be small and lightweight. This knife should ideally have a safe and easy to use one handed mechanism, and be easy to sharpen but hold an edge. It will be used for most tasks.

I also like a small fixed blade for social purposes and larger tasks. I want something that I can do most large knife things with. It should have a 3-4.5” blade, and a grip large enough to get a comfortable full handed purchase on; without adding a lot of extra overall length. The sheath, although one can be custom ordered separately, is the largest factor in how often I will carry it often or not. I like either a deep carry pocket or standard sheath with a durable steel (dcc) clip that can be carried in a pocket or tucked iwb or on Mille webbing. I slightly prefer a single edged blade, but a false swedge or dagger is ok. I like a broader leaf style shape, but a straight triangle is fine. Flat grips (as opposed to large ovals or a coke bottle) will ensure I can easily index the knife and it won’t twist in my hand. For a single edge I like a shape that makes it obvious which side is sharp, less important with a dagger; but either way it should be comfortable any way I grip it, ice pick or standard, edge top or bottom. I prefer a convex grind, but I’m not picky. The edge will eventually become convexed as I use and sharpen it. My favorite fixed blade is the amtac minuteman and a custom version with more of a leaf shape my friend made for me. They both incorporate a small hook at the end of the grip which makes them easier to grasp and draw from a deep carry position. View attachment 9883

Thanks for your detailed and thought out response. I certainly appreciate the effort and time. It seems you and I have similar thoughts here on the philosophy of carry.
Thought and attention to detail in both grip/ scales and sheath really tell a lot about the quality of the product and the skill of the maker. Often overlooked by larger production outfits, but these two things connect the user to the knife and the knife to the user.
I generally only carry folders as a no profile solution when I don't even want my multi tool on my belt and my LCR on the Enigma. My utility knife is what I call a "gentleman's knife", small, tasteful, non-threatening carried on my belt next to my multi tool and my last ditch option is an equally small, no frills knife carried across the belly on a DCC JWB clip.

 

[MOT]

Just to add to what others have already said. I’m going to assume we’re talking mostly about fixed blades.
Details that are a must in my book.
Decent steel, either high carbon or a stainless.
Full tang, simple blade geometry(some straight edge, some belly, a point) consistent grind pattern, typically either a scandi or flat depending on if it’s for food or work. Blade spine thickness of course varies, but in general anything 1/4” is too chunky unless it’s a very big knife.
Absolutely no choil on the blade. These tend to get hung up on things such as cordage or clothing or hide.
The handle should be neutral enough that the hand can grip it in pretty much any way. Definitely has to have a rounded or smoothed over pommel for thumb/offhand support. Glass breakers are a no go.
There should be some(not a ton) of contour to the grip so orientation is easy and some finger choil/palm swell to get a bit of a mechanical lock in the hand.
Paracord handles are a no go for me. They retain moisture against the steel and are not as easy to clean. And not where I want to keep my cordage that I intend to use. Micarta and g10 pretty universally good.
For me, the knives that Brian Goode makes are a great example of simplicity, ergonomics, functionality and beauty. And they meet all of my criteria for blades. There are many others too of course.
Finally the sheath. Like others said, this gets overlooked a lot.
Ideally it’s made of the least amount of material and is not much bigger than the actual blade but has eyelets for playing with mounting hardware. I prefer kydex over leather because it doesn’t retain moisture or collapse. I really appreciate when the sheath has a thumb ramp or duck bill for easy re-indexing. The Armatus Carry Solutions sheaths are about as ideal as I’ve found, with some small modifications.

Just my thoughts, I could probably go on but that’s plenty of nerding for now.

 

[Smith&Steward]

Just to add to what others have already said. I’m going to assume we’re talking mostly about fixed blades.
Details that are a must in my book.
Decent steel, either high carbon or a stainless.
Full tang, simple blade geometry(some straight edge, some belly, a point) consistent grind pattern, typically either a scandi or flat depending on if it’s for food or work. Blade spine thickness of course varies, but in general anything 1/4” is too chunky unless it’s a very big knife.
Absolutely no choil on the blade. These tend to get hung up on things such as cordage or clothing or hide.
The handle should be neutral enough that the hand can grip it in pretty much any way. Definitely has to have a rounded or smoothed over pommel for thumb/offhand support. Glass breakers are a no go.
There should be some(not a ton) of contour to the grip so orientation is easy and some finger choil/palm swell to get a bit of a mechanical lock in the hand.
Paracord handles are a no go for me. They retain moisture against the steel and are not as easy to clean. And not where I want to keep my cordage that I intend to use. Micarta and g10 pretty universally good.
For me, the knives that Brian Goode makes are a great example of simplicity, ergonomics, functionality and beauty. And they meet all of my criteria for blades. There are many others too of course.
Finally the sheath. Like others said, this gets overlooked a lot.
Ideally it’s made of the least amount of material and is not much bigger than the actual blade but has eyelets for playing with mounting hardware. I prefer kydex over leather because it doesn’t retain moisture or collapse. I really appreciate when the sheath has a thumb ramp or duck bill for easy re-indexing. The Armatus Carry Solutions sheaths are about as ideal as I’ve found, with some small modifications.

Just my thoughts, I could probably go on but that’s plenty of nerding for now.

Thanks for your thought out and detailed post. I appreciate every post that comes in. I started with putting an flare in the mouth of my sheaths for a while but now do more of a duck bill on them after I started doing that for my personal stuff. It does make indexing and re-sheathing easier. I have found that there is definitely a time and place for the comfort of leather, but generally I agree Kydex or other thermoplastic is the way to go. Feel free to nerd out on folders too if you want. Thanks again for your time.