Travel Gun

#1
So in the wake of COVID 19 and also an upcoming PCS I have I have developed a “requirement” for a travel gun to augment my EDC gun. This is not a truck gun in the typical sense of a long gun in a rifle caliber but more of a small weapon that is compatible with what I already have.

Requirements

  1. Reliable
  2. Small enough to be fired from inside vehicle with all windows rolled up
  3. Effectively engage threats from 0-35 yds
  4. Feed from 9mm Glock mags
  5. Small enough to stow next to driver seat
  6. Suppressor ready
  7. Optics ready
  8. Able to mount a sufficient duty grade weapon light
  9. Not overly expensive
Possible Solution

After going back and forth with some different platforms both physically and conceptually (AR9, MPX, G17 w/ Flux brace) and talking with some friends who have both similar and different points of view on weapons and their employment I have come to the conclusion that the weapon that will meet most if not all of my requirements is the Ruger PC9 Charger. From my research and LIMITED hands on experience with the full sized Ruger PC Carbine I feel the Charger fills requirements 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8. The Charger also likely fills requirements 1 and 4 but those won’t be verified until I can find only locally and convince the shop to let me try sticking it into my truck without buying it first and also put a significant amount of ammo through it (800-1.5k rds).

Ruger PC Charger Pistol Specs
  • Caliber: 9mm
  • Barrel: 6.5 inches (Threaded ½ x 28)
  • Overall Length: 16.5 inches
  • Weight: 5.2 pounds
  • Height: 5.6 inches
  • Grip: AR15 compadable
  • Sights: Picatinny Rail
  • Action: Semi-Automatic
  • Capacity: 15/17/33 Ruger and Glock Magazine depending on magwell
  • MSRP: $799
Configuration

So now the fun part, kitting out the gun. So starting off with the actual weapon it will get the aluminum MCX style folding brace from SB tactical and a MOE-K pistol grip, both are my preferred set up on my MPX.

For the optic it will be an RDS I have a mix of Aimpoints, Trijicons, and Holosuns so whatever is not gainfully employed on another weapon is what will go on it.

For lights I would most likely go for a Modlite 18350 body with a OKW/PLHv2 head attached to a unity Hot Button. If the hot button doesn’t work or compromises compactness beyond what I need it will get a standard pressure pad.

I would like the capability to suppress the gun for my hearing sake but that can left off depending on where I am traveling. Would be a can with about a 4-6 inch form factor.

Conclusion

So having presented my requirements and possible solution I am looking for feedback to see if this is in fact the way to go or if a better solution exist that I either missed or ignored. Something to keep in mind is that I understand that the likely hood of me employing this weapon is SIGNIFICANTLY LOWER than me needing to employ my EDC gun which is also a low probability. This weapon is intended to be a small aggressively minded weapon to even the odds in a robbery ambush or multiple attacker situation. I also attached an image of kinda what the gun will look like minus the light setup.
 
#3
I did consider their MP17 (The M17 thing they did) but due to lack of availability and price of that product including the cost of the M17 and mags I don't think it will work for me. Also the do not yet make a brace for the P80 frame which is what all of my "Glocks" have on them. If they bring one to market I think it would be the way to go as well.
 
#4
Don’t laugh too hard but Kel-Tec Sub 2000.
mine has been totally reliable so far thru 500 rounds of 124 ball snd 200 rounds of 147 HST.
 
#6
Folded in half it’s 16”. A 16” barrel would probably push 147 HST at about 1100 to 1125 FPS. A little fast snd may cause jacket/core separation but I’ll settle for that if the penetration is good. Mine is in a fold top bag from CountyComm in my vehicle all the time. With practice I can get it out of the bag unfolded and a round chambered in 6 seconds.
 
#7
Grand Power Stibog, while I don't own one, my training partner runs one of these to great effect. Like you, I think that I want a PDW for travel as well. This is making my personal short list. They are getting hard to find though.

 
#8
Folded in half it’s 16”. A 16” barrel would probably push 147 HST at about 1100 to 1125 FPS. A little fast snd may cause jacket/core separation but I’ll settle for that if the penetration is good. Mine is in a fold top bag from CountyComm in my vehicle all the time. With practice I can get it out of the bag unfolded and a round chambered in 6 seconds.
I need to correct my velocity figures above. Those numbers are if you’re running 147+P HST. Standard pressure 147 HST would probably be about 1050 to a bit under 1100 FPS.
 
#9
Grand Power Stibog, while I don't own one, my training partner runs one of these to great effect. Like you, I think that I want a PDW for travel as well. This is making my personal short list. They are getting hard to find though.
Good option but does not meet requirement 4 and 9. It has to feed from Glock mgs because I do not want to grab a backup mag from somewhere else in my cab.
 
#11
[QUOTE="terminallance17, post: Also the do not yet make a brace for the P80 frame which is what all of my "Glocks" have on them. If they bring one to market I think it would be the way to go as well.[/QUOTE]

The going rate of a glock is usually in the ballpark of $500 the G17 brace is $250. Put those together and you're still under the MSRP of the Charger and ending with a more elegant solution IMO. Since you're considering buying a new gun anyway buying the Glock shouldn't be an issue.
 
#12
True, but i'm also not a huge fan of that because the ligh that is used with magazine grip module is subpar in my opinion. Also i'd like some sort of manual safety since it will be stuck in between seat. This why I was looking at their MP17 configuration but decided against it.

Again it it's a good option, but i'm not sure if it is the best for me
 
#13
I could argue or ask about a lot (suppressor, but has to fit /inside/ the car at all angles?), but mostly:
Where is 0-35 coming from?

Because I am not a great shot, and at least with the RDS, a straight up handgun is good to well nigh 100 yds. 35 is well within the plausible engagement range then. Modern WMLs will even light up out past 50 yds, so that's day or night even.

So: If I was going to go to another gun, it would be for the beyond-50 yd threat, at which point it's okay that it's slightly farther away, takes different ammo, etc. as you presumably have a moment to arrange yourself, get it, move and then engage. 0-35 is defensive ranges, so dealt with Right Now by the handgun to me.

What am I missing?
 
#14
The suppressor would b to preserve what is left of my hearing. For example I'm stationed in FL where I can have a suppressor, if I was traveling within the state I would have the suppressor on there because it is legal for me to have and I can maintain my hearing and increase my situational awareness. For multi-state trips it would be left behind or packed.

I chose 0-35yds because this is for close contact distance. This is not a "I'm gonna save the day" gun but a more offensive EDC gun to tilt odds in my favor. Plus I have not shot my HSTs into gel at distances further than 5-8ft so I'm still unsure how they will preform at 35yds or even further.

So the scenario I crated this post around was my last trip (FL-NC) I had to stop for gas in a kind of sketch area and it took me by surprise. While I was fueling I had 3 kids (17-19yrs old from the looks) come up to the gas station and eye my truck over the whole time I was fueling. Then as I was getting ready to leave one of them started to approach my vehicle. This is a no go for me living in Miami and seeing how people are there. So in the event that this had become a robbery I could have be proficient enough to defend myself with my G19, however I could out myself at more of an advantage by have a three point of contact weapon.

Also if I need it NOW and in the EXTREMELY UNLIKELY event I run dry or I have a malfunction I want to have a reload on hand. Also it is easier for me to grab a PDW out from between the seats then negotiate my seatbelt and cover garments. Think of this gun as a linebacker, if I want to make a goal line stand I’m gonna trust my Defensive line (in this case my G19) to get the job done. But that doesn’t mean I’m not gonna use my linebackers (travel) to make sure the threat is stopped by taking the fight to the running back.
 
#15
Good requirements details now.

Some random tangential thoughts, then I will stop contributing my not-what-you-asked ideas :)
  • I can get my holstered gun out when seated. Checked just now on my drive and yup, still does. So, a cheap approach is to carry slightly different when driving-mostly, to make that work.
  • Drivers get handguns. Long heard this for high threat areas where everyone is armed. Driver's primary job is to drive, but maybe there's a threat at a bad angle, everyone is busy or injured, etc so the driver has a handgun.
  • Ignoring how overt displays work (tanker holsters...) drivers for happy civilized places often carry a handgun in a driver holster. Either attached to the car, or to the driver's seatbelt (then covered by jacket etc. Arratoonian used to make one, can't find it now though.
  • For being-alone on road trips, no matter what the gun is, I don't love unsecured guns. Both smash-and-grab theft (or forgetting to lock up!) and accidents. Anything not secured is a projectile so can injure you, AND is not where you expect to find it when the post-accident shooting starts. Remember, we're not the only ones who know that a vehicle is a weapon.
  • So my suggestion would be:
    • Another Glock
    • Likely, a somewhat bigger one:
    • Not just light and RDS, but comp? Longer slide? Suppressor mount and leave the suppressor on all the time.
    • A storage vault bolted to the car somewhere in easy reach. Pushbuttons (mechanical, not electronic) and practice. Should be like 1 second longer than just tugging and it's Always There, no rooting around for it, no forgetting to stick it in the car before you go. Lives in that safe when not being shot at the range or cleaned.
PS: Yes, suppressor good. My point was: long. If you are shooting left or forward, good luck not bumping into things with a gun that long. Ponder. Mock it up and try pointing at stuff going "pew pew" in your car sometime when the neighbor's can't see you. Or even start with a cheap airsoft of what you are thinking to try actually hitting targets (windows down, PPE!!!!) before you spend a lot.

PPS: My real choice would be something like the B&T USW, or one of their conversions for other guns. Handgun, but unfolds a tiny stock when you have a moment to do that, and need the range. But: NFA gun. Time, and paperwork.
 
#16
Good requirements details now.

Some random tangential thoughts, then I will stop contributing my not-what-you-asked ideas :)
  • I can get my holstered gun out when seated. Checked just now on my drive and yup, still does. So, a cheap approach is to carry slightly different when driving-mostly, to make that work.
  • Drivers get handguns. Long heard this for high threat areas where everyone is armed. Driver's primary job is to drive, but maybe there's a threat at a bad angle, everyone is busy or injured, etc so the driver has a handgun.
  • Ignoring how overt displays work (tanker holsters...) drivers for happy civilized places often carry a handgun in a driver holster. Either attached to the car, or to the driver's seatbelt (then covered by jacket etc. Arratoonian used to make one, can't find it now though.
  • For being-alone on road trips, no matter what the gun is, I don't love unsecured guns. Both smash-and-grab theft (or forgetting to lock up!) and accidents. Anything not secured is a projectile so can injure you, AND is not where you expect to find it when the post-accident shooting starts. Remember, we're not the only ones who know that a vehicle is a weapon.
  • So my suggestion would be:
    • Another Glock
    • Likely, a somewhat bigger one:
    • Not just light and RDS, but comp? Longer slide? Suppressor mount and leave the suppressor on all the time.
    • A storage vault bolted to the car somewhere in easy reach. Pushbuttons (mechanical, not electronic) and practice. Should be like 1 second longer than just tugging and it's Always There, no rooting around for it, no forgetting to stick it in the car before you go. Lives in that safe when not being shot at the range or cleaned.
PS: Yes, suppressor good. My point was: long. If you are shooting left or forward, good luck not bumping into things with a gun that long. Ponder. Mock it up and try pointing at stuff going "pew pew" in your car sometime when the neighbor's can't see you. Or even start with a cheap airsoft of what you are thinking to try actually hitting targets (windows down, PPE!!!!) before you spend a lot.

PPS: My real choice would be something like the B&T USW, or one of their conversions for other guns. Handgun, but unfolds a tiny stock when you have a moment to do that, and need the range. But: NFA gun. Time, and paperwork.
Excellent post and things to consider.

In a perfect world or if money/laws would be no option the B&T USW or HK MP7 would be my choice in a heart beat, but given the price point/availability they put them out of my budget. Being active duty military the permanent gun storage option may not work best for me as the MPs on my installation are not huge fans of loaded gun in POV's. I am looking at safes but have not yet found the one. I did a crude mock up in my truck with "stand ins" (2x4's cut to the OAL of the Charger and other options) and all options cleared the 12, 3, 6 positions fine but I obviously had interference to the 9 o'clock position with everything from my EDC (a roland P80) to my MPX-C.

While a second Glock is not a bad option I would just prefer a weapon with a 3rd point of contact.