LPVO Install thread

[Sherlockanubis]

I figured seeing as I did not find a thread or posts on installing LPVO's this could be useful for me and those that follow.

So I just purchased a razor 1-10 and a badger COMM. What do I need for installation? This is my first LPVO.

I read and watched a couple things and I have the general idea. Would like to get some tips on best practices and items needed for install.

Are alignment bars needed if purchasing 2 high quality items ( optic and mount)

Is there a all in one kit that I can buy or is it better to get the pieces individually.

Is the wheeler fat wrench kit and alignment bars g2g or are there better ones to get?

Should I buy a vise or something else to level the Rifle?

I would prefer to get tools that I can use for other installs (RMRs other red dots etc rather than just this optic if possible.

Thank you in advance.

Sent from my LM-X212(G) using Tapatalk

 

[ggammell]

Watch this. I found it helpful.

the FAT wrench seems to be king of the torque wrench in the gun world.

I’ve also used the arisaka level kit instead of bubble levels. My scope and mount allow for that, not everything does.

 

[Fatboy]

Use a good torque wrench/ screw driver to ensure you're hitting the proper specs. Wheeler FAT or their digital tool will work just fine.

Other than that, I got nothing. Hopefully some other scope guys pop up with more/ better info.

 

[shoobe01]

Personally, I like the torque limiters that come with Fix It Sticks. So much so I never use my very nice (in-lb) torque wrench as these are pre-set, so foolproof. And no getting lazy and skipping torque setting, because you just pick up the torque limiter and go.

And I use them on lots of stuff. I install scopes with my normal toolbox stuff, as it all works for anything with that drive. This is bits from like five different driver sets, and occasional replacements as they wear or break, in a separately bought nice tool holder.

I am sure there are other informed opinions, but I think if you have not just quality stuff but go slow so don't tighten mis-aligned stuff, no need for scope ring alignment bars. Of course, unimounts can also make this moot

Just read a very solid writeup (where... cannot find it now!) that lapping et al are antiquated, are not needed today as they were all for direct screw mounting of rings to receivers and so forth where alignment simply couldn't be held that close. Any remotely good top rail and ring set is going to be 1000x more precise than 1970s deer rifle ring setups.

 

[tylerw02]

I use a plumb bob to level. The further away you can get it, the better your results will be.

You can also use feeler gauges underneath the flat on the bottom of the turret housing to get it level. This assumes the reticle is level to the scope body, which isn’t always the case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Garrett S]

I am sure there are other informed opinions, but I think if you have not just quality stuff but go slow so don't tighten mis-aligned stuff, no need for scope ring alignment bars. Of course, unimounts can also make this moot

Just read a very solid writeup (where... cannot find it now!) that lapping et al are antiquated, are not needed today as they were all for direct screw mounting of rings to receivers and so forth where alignment simply couldn't be held that close. Any remotely good top rail and ring set is going to be 1000x more precise than 1970s deer rifle ring setups.

I have mounted several scopes over the years. I do still get people that want a 3-9x40 added to a Marlin 336, Savage, Remington, Howa etc. bolt rifle. I always recommend lapping with two-piece rings and have had good results. I also mark the rings so that if they're taken apart you can tell which top goes with each bottom and in which direction. Using a lapping bar to check ring alignment in such cases works well and I don't even mess with ring alignment bars.

For modern one-piece bases from reputable makers, it's not necessary. As you said they provide much better results with minimal work. Just torque to spec as outlined by optic and mount manufacturers and level using a plumb. I have an old Site-Lite laser boresighter that allows access to software that prints out a boresighting target based on cartridge specs, velocity, BC, height over bore etc. and it's really not worth the hassle. In my experience boresighting by eye works pretty damn well if you can do it at your range at 25-50 yds.

 

[shoobe01]

Sorry, could have written that differently. Old timey guns or direct-mounting methods on modern — mostly hunting — guns still exist and there the alignment, lapping, and / or bedding all absolutely make sense still, and I am glad there are (a few!) smiths that know what they are doing arounds still for that work.