Time to spread the good info.
Combat Zeros
- Thread starter Matt Landfair
- Start date
03humpalot
Amateur
50/200 for AR and SCAR platform 5.56 guns
25/100(Meters) for 7.62 AKM's.
25/100(Meters) for 7.62 AKM's.
Several on the FB page were upset that the video was misleading because the shots were not shot at the distances being shown.
rob_s
Member
Can't speak to "combat" but I've done the 200 (un-50) and the 100, and I prefer the 100 because I find it simpler to deal with.
What really amazes me is how many people don't have the first idea as to their "zero" at all, or who will swear up and down that they are "zeroed at x yards" then appear baffled when they miss at various distances, including the one they said they used to zero the gun.
To me, have a zero, have it be at least a 50-yard-initial-intersection, and shoot enough to learn what happens closer/further than your crossing point(s). What that actual zero is tends to be pretty immaterial, and personal.
What really amazes me is how many people don't have the first idea as to their "zero" at all, or who will swear up and down that they are "zeroed at x yards" then appear baffled when they miss at various distances, including the one they said they used to zero the gun.
To me, have a zero, have it be at least a 50-yard-initial-intersection, and shoot enough to learn what happens closer/further than your crossing point(s). What that actual zero is tends to be pretty immaterial, and personal.
Grizzly
Regular Member
Ya, to me though I don't care if he shot it at 1 yd, used a drill bit or a sharpie. The information contained about drop is accurate and the reasons to pick a zero are good.
Bourneshooter
Blue Line Sheepdog
I use the 50/200ish zero. I tried the 100 yard zero, but after an analysis of my working environment, I could easily be in a standoff or engagement over 200 yards. Because of this I wanted a little better knowledge of my zero over 200 and found it was better for me than the 100 at that distance.
I keep it zeroed at 50, and just shoot to know the holds past it, not trying to be perfect at 200 due to the 50 and in being more likely.
I keep it zeroed at 50, and just shoot to know the holds past it, not trying to be perfect at 200 due to the 50 and in being more likely.
A broken watch is right twice a day.
KevinB
Member
Your a 100m guy aren't you? (still 
)
One of the biggest issues I have with defining a "zero" is you need to know the trajectory of your bullet from 0--> 2x times past where you think your going to shoot, regardless of where you zero your POI/POA to. This is exceptionally important for CONUS LE - where I have seen some massive misunderstandings of bullet trajectory (most came from Big Army)
Additionally what your expected engagement ranges are (as this can play a large factor).
Roland will (or at least used to) zero at 100 - but he'd damn well know his zero (and confirm and confirm and confirm) from smash in the grape out to it's really hard to see.
If your like me, and on a budget - I simply grab a few data points
1) have Magneto Speed, and AB app
2) zero gun (and get MV's with the Magneto) shoot 4 x 5rd groups or better yet more (better MV data - and better knowledge of what group is)
3) confirm ballistics chart with live fire on a few ranges (close, medium, far - these ranges will be platform specific as truing a 10" gun at 700 is a little dumb)
) One of the biggest issues I have with defining a "zero" is you need to know the trajectory of your bullet from 0--> 2x times past where you think your going to shoot, regardless of where you zero your POI/POA to. This is exceptionally important for CONUS LE - where I have seen some massive misunderstandings of bullet trajectory (most came from Big Army)
Additionally what your expected engagement ranges are (as this can play a large factor).
Roland will (or at least used to) zero at 100 - but he'd damn well know his zero (and confirm and confirm and confirm) from smash in the grape out to it's really hard to see.
If your like me, and on a budget - I simply grab a few data points
1) have Magneto Speed, and AB app
2) zero gun (and get MV's with the Magneto) shoot 4 x 5rd groups or better yet more (better MV data - and better knowledge of what group is)
3) confirm ballistics chart with live fire on a few ranges (close, medium, far - these ranges will be platform specific as truing a 10" gun at 700 is a little dumb)
I'm zero'd at 200M
100 is the only intersect.
CrazyDoc
Amateur
Then that would by why no one ever said where it intersected.... Now question number two, for the SBR 50/200 is good. We're would you zero a "Recce" style gun with a 2.5-10x32? It's used for hunting mostly but I also don't want to learn useless zeros past what I've already learned.
Toole
Toole
KevinB
Member
Zero depends on reticle as well.
If your reticle can account for various ranges using a definitive hold (like Horus) then zero it at the most practical range (usually but not always 100m)
The 100m/yd zero was usually based on 1) the furthest range a soldier could get a real group at, 2) iron sights that would then accommodate for ranges plus of that 3) failure to understand external ballistics.
I say usually - as some folks like the 100m zero
Other aspect is that depending upon your loading and how flat the trajectory is - and what the HoB is of your sighting system, a different zero may be more effective for your needs.
If your reticle can account for various ranges using a definitive hold (like Horus) then zero it at the most practical range (usually but not always 100m)
The 100m/yd zero was usually based on 1) the furthest range a soldier could get a real group at, 2) iron sights that would then accommodate for ranges plus of that 3) failure to understand external ballistics.
I say usually - as some folks like the 100m zero
Other aspect is that depending upon your loading and how flat the trajectory is - and what the HoB is of your sighting system, a different zero may be more effective for your needs.