Sling

I hope my question isn't too ignorant, but would someone be willing to explain what exactly makes a sling good? How much is personal preference, and what is key? Materials, hardware, design features, whatever is relevant. Even model specific info, if applicable (e.g., AR style, versus maybe for a 10/22, or mini-14/"traditional" style rifle/stock)
I have found info on specific brands and models that are recommended, but why, exactly?
Thanks
 

Matt Landfair

Matt Six Actual
Staff member
Administrator
The recommended adjustable two point combat slings have several things in common which make them favored over other options.

Means of Attachment to the rifle can be changed to the needs of the end user.

Adjustable allows for various positions and activities as well as better retention.

Greater Durability, lighter weight, and does not use excessive materials.
 

Fatboy

Established
For me and the work I do, what makes a sling good or better is simple. I have a few things that are must have- it must be a tubular nylon or flat nylon construction, and the hardware to attach it must be bulletproof. It has to hold the rifle securely in case of the need to use my hands (climbing, cuffing, fighting etc) Other things like ease of adjustability are added nice to have features.

My current sling is a VTAC 2 point. It is set up so I can wear it slick, in concealed armor, and also wear it with a plate carrier or heavy armor with minimal adjustment. The front attachment is a quick release swivel attached midway down the forearm of the rifle. I attach it there so there is no interference with lights, lasers, switches, or barricades. The rear is attached using simple tri-glides at the buttstock.

Any number of slings fit that criteria and would work for me. For about 8 years in the Army I used a home made, low tech sling that still is attached to my personal gun.
 

Fatboy

Established
I'll add in that I generally run the sling tighter/ shorter than most. It's long enough to shoot, load, and do most other manipulations without needing to unsling, and if I need transition to my pistol, the rifle gets pushed down and away where my gear generally keeps it snug. Most times it doesn't even smack me in the nuts.
 

IEDmagnet

Amateur
I run a Magpul MS4 sling, though I very rarely use it in single point variation though. I set my front sling point close to the receiver and make it tight.


Sent from my iPhone using rocks and sticks.
 
Ok, here is some info from Viking Tactical regarding a couple of their slings. (I asked specifically about padded models)...
Their MK2 is nylon construction.
The "hunting" sling is "nylon and no slip".
They also have (at this time, but it is the and of a run) a RealTree pattern sling which is made of Cordura
 

Fatboy

Established
Ok, here is some info from Viking Tactical regarding a couple of their slings. (I asked specifically about padded models)...
Their MK2 is nylon construction.
The "hunting" sling is "nylon and no slip".
They also have (at this time, but it is the and of a run) a RealTree pattern sling which is made of Cordura


The non slip material would be good for hunting carry ( muzzle up, slung over a shoulder) because it should keep it from sliding around or off of your shoulder. For "tactical" purposes, I can't see where it would be a benefit to have on slip on the sling. You generally move the gun around too much for various reasons and you don't want the sling getting hung up on gear.

Padding on a sling can be nice as long as it is a closed cell type so it doesn't absorb water or sweat. VTAC padded ones are good to go in my opinion.

I guess a question for you is what are you looking to do with your sling? That will help guide any answers you might get.
 
I guess a question for you is what are you looking to do with your sling? That will help guide any answers you might get.

Well now, that is probably a good question, I suppose. It seems like a silly question, honestly, but I'll chalk that up to my ignorance.

I am not a tactical guy. At this point I would mostly use a sling for a shooting support/assist, primarily hunting application. I am considering the value of a sling on the shotgun I have for home defense. Maybe at some point I will acquire a semi-auto rifle for home defense/fun, at which point I will have to consider the value of a sling.
The impetus for this post was my brother-in-law asking me what kind of sling would I recommend for his 10/22, and me realizing the best I could do was mention that I knew the Blue Force Gear sling is supposed to be quality materials and design.

Which parts of this make a difference?
My (again) uninformed thought was that slings were meant to do a specific task; to aid in free hand shooting and maybe help carry a long arm.
 

CoryS

Newbie
A sling on your HD or any potential human engagement shotgun is a must IMO. I've never encountered what I'd consider to be a "lightweight" protection shotty. They all have been quite cumbersome in a proper configuration. When I think Shotty sling, I think an attachment to the buttstock that is on either side or top. Not the bottom like hunting slings. Its better than nothing, but the gun will, or will want to, flip top side down.

An M4ish or some other purpose built stock for defensive application may have attachment points that lend themselves to this, but most sporting stocks do not. A wide array of companies offer attachment nylon to fixed stocks for this purpose. There are other attachment options, however, they include some advanced disassembly to install (Not crazy hard, but advanced... like removal of the buttstock. IIRC, Mossbergs in particular are less than easy). Furthermore, the front attachment point can be equally sporty w/o the proper parts. ( magazine caps and so forth)

The sling will help when manipulating your environment ie: opening/closing doors, turning on lights if you choose, picking things up like keys, or impaled legos or children who need to be moved but will not wake up...those kinds of things.

The sling will aid in reloading; supporting and helping you feed that thing.

The sling will aid in retention should you need to fight over that thing or other things, and somethings can't be shot at the moment. Properly adjusted, it can hang while you feed elbows, knees, knife hands and hate upon an assailant.

Hope that helps.
 

Fatboy

Established
Realistically, most tactical style slings will work as a hunting sling. Not many hunting slings will work as a tactical sling. But for the love of anyone you hold holy, stay away from 3 point slings. They fall into the good initiative, bad judgement category. They basically have extra webbing where none is needed, are cumbersome and overly complicated, and do a really shitty job of combining a 2 point sling and a single point sling.
 

MrMurphy

Regular Member
They were a good idea in 1990, but surpassed by quick-adjust 2 points around 2003........

I was issued a 3pt piece of shit in 2005-2008 and finally just started putting a Victory on my rifle every time it came out of the armory (every day).
 
A sling on your HD or any potential human engagement shotgun is a must IMO. I've never encountered what I'd consider to be a "lightweight" protection shotty. They all have been quite cumbersome in a proper configuration. When I think Shotty sling, I think an attachment to the buttstock that is on either side or top. Not the bottom like hunting slings. Its better than nothing, but the gun will, or will want to, flip top side down.

An M4ish or some other purpose built stock for defensive application may have attachment points that lend themselves to this, but most sporting stocks do not. A wide array of companies offer attachment nylon to fixed stocks for this purpose. There are other attachment options, however, they include some advanced disassembly to install (Not crazy hard, but advanced... like removal of the buttstock. IIRC, Mossbergs in particular are less than easy). Furthermore, the front attachment point can be equally sporty w/o the proper parts. ( magazine caps and so forth)

The sling will help when manipulating your environment ie: opening/closing doors, turning on lights if you choose, picking things up like keys, or impaled legos or children who need to be moved but will not wake up...those kinds of things.

The sling will aid in reloading; supporting and helping you feed that thing.

The sling will aid in retention should you need to fight over that thing or other things, and somethings can't be shot at the moment. Properly adjusted, it can hang while you feed elbows, knees, knife hands and hate upon an assailant.

Hope that helps.
Well, we may be getting off the topic here, but aren't most sling attachment points on most long guns on the bottom? (doesn't mean most aren't doing it "wrong", but that is what I tend to see, even with AR-15 style rifles.)
Or, is this really the big difference between hunting and tactical slings? When a "duty" gun isn't being used, "at rest" slung, shall we say, how would one sling it? I understand how it can be "dropped" more or less during an engagement in front of the body when not in use. Would this be the same position? Something else? Or, doesn't it matter at that point?
 

MrMurphy

Regular Member
Most sling attachment points have been on the bottom because throughout history it simply wasn't feasible to hang a LONG gun (remember, up til WW1, infantry rifles had 30 inch barrels, and even in WW2, 25 inch was normal) in the manner now common. With the rise of submachine guns, assault rifles and everything in general being shorter, it is. Bottom sling swivels are for administrative carry, like road marches (75% of the job of the infantry prior to WW2) where no combat is expected.

Nowadays, having a rifle permanently slung "ready" is more likely and common. Post 2000 it's a lot more odd to see guys with rifles slung over a shoulder on their back, unless doing an admin movement, or mountaineering, etc. For hunting rifles, the bottom sling mount is still normal, but you see more guys modifying bolt guns, etc for side sling mounts due to experience and preference. For a hunting gun, the bottom mounts don't bother me, and some hunters even remove a sling completely so it won't tangle in brush when hunting dangerous game. But for .mil guys and those of similar experiences, a modern 2 pt quick adjust sling, even on a hunting gun, tends to be preferred.

My work rifles are all set up that with with a VTAC or similar. My hunting rifle, being a century old Mauser, is not...... :) But the next one (modern) most likely will be, since it will also be shorter/handier (20-22" barrel).

My work rifle is always slung ready at the front, excepting one time when performing CPR (too late) on a murder victim, where I slung it on my back. In that case I had 2 others with me and we all had pistols as well readily accessible.
 

Fatboy

Established
Most sling attachment points have been on the bottom because throughout history it simply wasn't feasible to hang a LONG gun (remember, up til WW1, infantry rifles had 30 inch barrels, and even in WW2, 25 inch was normal) in the manner now common. With the rise of submachine guns, assault rifles and everything in general being shorter, it is. Bottom sling swivels are for administrative carry, like road marches (75% of the job of the infantry prior to WW2) where no combat is expected.

Nowadays, having a rifle permanently slung "ready" is more likely and common. Post 2000 it's a lot more odd to see guys with rifles slung over a shoulder on their back, unless doing an admin movement, or mountaineering, etc. For hunting rifles, the bottom sling mount is still normal, but you see more guys modifying bolt guns, etc for side sling mounts due to experience and preference. For a hunting gun, the bottom mounts don't bother me, and some hunters even remove a sling completely so it won't tangle in brush when hunting dangerous game. But for .mil guys and those of similar experiences, a modern 2 pt quick adjust sling, even on a hunting gun, tends to be preferred.

My work rifles are all set up that with with a VTAC or similar. My hunting rifle, being a century old Mauser, is not...... :) But the next one (modern) most likely will be, since it will also be shorter/handier (20-22" barrel).

My work rifle is always slung ready at the front, excepting one time when performing CPR (too late) on a murder victim, where I slung it on my back. In that case I had 2 others with me and we all had pistols as well readily accessible.


To echo what he said- my personal rifle, my work rifle, and all of the department rifles I've set up for use have attachment points on the side, so when they hang on the sling the grip and controls stay in the quickest orientation to grab them and use them.

Also, I've said it previously, but the sling itself does not need to be real loose to do it's job. (The primary jobs are to hold the weapon when you need your hands for other things and to assist in steadying the gun for more precise shots.) I've noticed a recurring theme with long slings- they lead to smacked nuts when you let the rifle go for a transition to pistol, habeus grab ass, climbing or any other task that involves moving with a dangling, slung weapon.

I will also throw in that I'm not an advocate of switching a rifle form shoulder to shoulder while clearing structures or working around barricades, so no need for a loose sling for that reason in my book.
 

RenoWalker

Newbie
I've been running a VCAS padded 2 point for years now on my duty and personal rifle. Rear is looped through the stock and front was a QD until I had to go hands on with a guy and during the brief struggle it popped out of my ALG rail so back to a HK hook for me. I recently picked up a SOB sling for my duty rifle, so far I like the way it adjust and since it's not padded it folds up tight under the band on the stock which is a plus when I pull it out of my car since it's not in a rack.
 

Fatboy

Established
I've been running a VCAS padded 2 point for years now on my duty and personal rifle. Rear is looped through the stock and front was a QD until I had to go hands on with a guy and during the brief struggle it popped out of my ALG rail so back to a HK hook for me. I recently picked up a SOB sling for my duty rifle, so far I like the way it adjust and since it's not padded it folds up tight under the band on the stock which is a plus when I pull it out of my car since it's not in a rack.


Was the QD not pushed in all the way, was it a shallow machined pocket, was it that much of a knock down drag out fight or was it something else? I ask because I've heard of QD's popping out a few years ago but I don't remember if it was the QD, the rail, tolerance stacking or something else that caused it.
 

RenoWalker

Newbie
Was the QD not pushed in all the way, was it a shallow machined pocket, was it that much of a knock down drag out fight or was it something else? I ask because I've heard of QD's popping out a few years ago but I don't remember if it was the QD, the rail, tolerance stacking or something else that caused it.
I'm fairly certain it was attached correctly, just saying that because I didn't look right at it to check before the struggle but before every shift I always check over my gear. It was fine for most of the ordeal, after the guy was cuffed and on the ground he got up and tried to charge us. I took him back down pretty hard with my rifle slung on my back and that's when it popped out. It was hooked in the QD slot on the ALG rail which there is not much there so maybe a magpul mlok QD mount would be more sturdy. I really want to use QD's and will probably try Magpuls's QDM but for now tri-glides and Hk hooks are it. Hope this helps.
 

Fatboy

Established
I'm fairly certain it was attached correctly, just saying that because I didn't look right at it to check before the struggle but before every shift I always check over my gear. It was fine for most of the ordeal, after the guy was cuffed and on the ground he got up and tried to charge us. I took him back down pretty hard with my rifle slung on my back and that's when it popped out. It was hooked in the QD slot on the ALG rail which there is not much there so maybe a magpul mlok QD mount would be more sturdy. I really want to use QD's and will probably try Magpuls's QDM but for now tri-glides and Hk hooks are it. Hope this helps.

Absolutely helps. Thanks.
 
Top