Nvg gear help!

#2
What you picked out is exactly what I have, for a simple/minimalist set I believe right now that's the way to go. Just make sure the pressure pad setup you get is compatible with the DBAL, ie make sure to order the correct switch. Potential changes might be a ballistic helmet but for my 14 I use a wendy exfil, and it comes down to what you think you will need it to do in the end. A ballistic helmet will 3-4x the cost of what you are looking at right now, you need to decide if you want/need that level of head protection for your intended use.

You may want to get a counterweight as well, over the years I have found helmets that do not have some kind of a counterweight can be very uncomfortable, I have the wendy one here: https://www.teamwendy.com/products/helmets-accessories/parts-accessories/exfil-counterweight-kit

I think it comes down what you are willing to spend and what you need it to do. For me and my uses (general NV use [home defense and range work), what you are looking at, is perfect. The PVS14 will also give you flexibility for use other than with shooting, which is a huge plus for me. For me, the next updates would be a MAWL then ballistic helmet, then if I can afford much later down the road, duals.
 

shoobe01

Regular Member
#3
I'd skip the switch for now. Get the setup, try it. If you are not a c-grip type, or otherwise find the laser actuation hard, THEN get a switch. But, think how much tape, where it goes, etc. Also, there's a world of switches. Even ones you can plug into the WML to have one remote for both systems. You can spend a lot on a switch :)

I don't see a J-arm. The monocular won't go on the mount directly, and shouldn't unless you are a cyclops. The J-arm makes it go off to the side, over whichever eye (they are flippable) you want.

The G11 will mount to the shroud and the J-arm, but some will say that by the time you go to Wilcox money, might as well spend more and go to dual dovetails, instead of normal old timey horns. I'd poke around this and see if it makes you happy or meets your budget. I personally just go with the normal horn mount, and have a G11 like yours (though in tan!) and careful mounting plus some silicone as bumper pads makes it super stable.

Get a LIF if you can find one. You don't likely need to keep safe from lasers, but it is a screw on front piece of glass, and all other sacrificial lenses I know of just clip on so you can't put other stuff on, and they fall off. This is expensive. You want a sac lens up front!

Expensive! Get a lanyard. I just make them, but the retracting leash types from Wilcox are nice and not /too/ much money. Read up, to see if it fits though. Some integrate specifically with Wilcox shrouds, so find how to lanyard to the TW helmet.

Be extra super sure of helmet sizing! With the right size, and adjusted right, you won't need counterwights for this setup. If not sized right, wobble and headaches.

Might have more to contribute depending on your specific needs/use.
 
#4
What you picked out is exactly what I have, for a simple/minimalist set I believe right now that's the way to go. Just make sure the pressure pad setup you get is compatible with the DBAL, ie make sure to order the correct switch. Potential changes might be a ballistic helmet but for my 14 I use a wendy exfil, and it comes down to what you think you will need it to do in the end. A ballistic helmet will 3-4x the cost of what you are looking at right now, you need to decide if you want/need that level of head protection for your intended use.

You may want to get a counterweight as well, over the years I have found helmets that do not have some kind of a counterweight can be very uncomfortable, I have the wendy one here: https://www.teamwendy.com/products/helmets-accessories/parts-accessories/exfil-counterweight-kit

I think it comes down what you are willing to spend and what you need it to do. For me and my uses (general NV use [home defense and range work), what you are looking at, is perfect. The PVS14 will also give you flexibility for use other than with shooting, which is a huge plus for me. For me, the next updates would be a MAWL then ballistic helmet, then if I can afford much later down the road, duals.
Appreciate it and my main use will be navigating at night and using it to hunt. And i thxs for the counterweight tip it will be on the list now for sure. And i also have a modlight okw and i plan on ordering a ir head for it to have have on the gun, or it might get moved to the helmet and I’ll just put the clicky cap back on not sure yet.
 
#5
I'd skip the switch for now. Get the setup, try it. If you are not a c-grip type, or otherwise find the laser actuation hard, THEN get a switch. But, think how much tape, where it goes, etc. Also, there's a world of switches. Even ones you can plug into the WML to have one remote for both systems. You can spend a lot on a switch :)

I don't see a J-arm. The monocular won't go on the mount directly, and shouldn't unless you are a cyclops. The J-arm makes it go off to the side, over whichever eye (they are flippable) you want.

The G11 will mount to the shroud and the J-arm, but some will say that by the time you go to Wilcox money, might as well spend more and go to dual dovetails, instead of normal old timey horns. I'd poke around this and see if it makes you happy or meets your budget. I personally just go with the normal horn mount, and have a G11 like yours (though in tan!) and careful mounting plus some silicone as bumper pads makes it super stable.

Get a LIF if you can find one. You don't likely need to keep safe from lasers, but it is a screw on front piece of glass, and all other sacrificial lenses I know of just clip on so you can't put other stuff on, and they fall off. This is expensive. You want a sac lens up front!

Expensive! Get a lanyard. I just make them, but the retracting leash types from Wilcox are nice and not /too/ much money. Read up, to see if it fits though. Some integrate specifically with Wilcox shrouds, so find how to lanyard to the TW helmet.

Be extra super sure of helmet sizing! With the right size, and adjusted right, you won't need counterwights for this setup. If not sized right, wobble and headaches.

Might have more to contribute depending on your specific needs/use.

Ya there is a j-arm included with that monocular I just didn’t think to screenshot it. And thx on the lanyard and LIF tip will definitely be putting them on the list. Got any companies i can look into for the LIF?
 

shoobe01

Regular Member
#6
Not sure if sorta restricted or what the deal is. The few places that claim to stock the LIF almost never have them, so I just go to eBay. And today, there's someone selling a bunch. Not as cheap as always, but they look good in photos at least.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Light-Inte...483521?hash=item52301c5d41:g:o-wAAOSwLRpeYSiM

If you have never seen these, the case is the wrench. Thread on a bit with your fingers, then tighten just enough it won't wobble off, using the bottom of the case. If you clean the lens under before installing, should never need to take it off for service.




Also, I forgot about the back. Since you are getting green phosphor: I ran a Wilcox amber filter for a while, but they popped off and are too expensive for that. When I got my unit rebuilt, was talked into the glass purple filter that screws on. Not sure what it's officially called, etc but I got it from these very clever folks: https://isquarednightvision.com/contact.php

Aside from explaining why that helps, several friends have bought them since for their work NODs. They help. And, I run mine without a rubber eyecup. The color change reduces raccoon eye issues, so the splash really should not give you away, and no rubber bit means less discomfort, etc.


Also, once you have it, get velcro on the front lenscap and the top of the J-arm, so it doesn't dangle around stupidly. Pull cap, stick to the top of the j-arm (suggested) or the side of the unit (what I did for this one, but I was wrong, need to change it).
 
#7
Alright thanks I’ll definitely get that stuff on the shopping list. Although the primary use isn’t going be kicking in doors I definitely don’t want this thing messed up for what I’m paying for it. Coyote better be careful when i get this won’t be nowhere to hid from me.
 
#8
Alrighty I appreciate it those are definitely going on to get list. Now on to my rifle is the flash going to damage my nods? My rifle is a 16” ar with bcm gunfighters comp on it got lot of flash to it was looking at getting the knox from sons of liberty if I needed a flash hider.
 

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shoobe01

Regular Member
#9
...Now on to my rifle is the flash going to damage my nods?
No.

Do not need more details, just no.

The flash will overwhelm it for a moment, and that will blind you more than anything. Plan accordingly. Even aside from flash, everything is slower at night, so you will not do followup shots 1.25 seconds later at night.

Suppressors are awesome for night work, just for the flash suppression :) But I'd just try it out, see how much it all annoys you for now, then decide if you need something else. When not suppressed, I do like that I can thread on a blast can to hide the flash from the brake, so that sort of system may be worth keeping in mind.

Also, you'll soon see how much the laser lights up the gas, particles, and whatever is kicked up off the ground. Don't be surprised by that.
 
#11
Ok question. Since I’m left handed and left eye dominant that means that the monocular goes over my right eye or left? Also is there some rare j-arm i have to buy if the monocular goes over my right eye?
 
#12
Typical use that I have seen for a monocular style optic is to wear it over your non-dominant eye. The Marine Corps Reserves is even poorer than the rest of the Marine Corps, so I wore a single PVS 14 for a long time over my left eye. (Right handed, right eye dominant). I'm sure there could be a situation where you might want to wear it over your dominant eye, perhaps passive aiming through a RDS on a pistol, but for rifle use with a PEQ, NVG over non dominant eye was how I was taught.

The typical Milspec J-arm loosens at the front and allows you to spin the monocular over either eye. If worn over the right eye, the threaded hole for the J-arm into the Monocular will simply be pointing towards the ground instead of to the sky.

It also doesn't hurt to have a spare J-arm. They are $30-$50 and are prone to breaking with rough use. After one patrol of walking holding my NVG up to my eye, I always made sure to keep a spare J-arm somewhere in my Ruck.
 

shoobe01

Regular Member
#13
What he said. The issue one flips over. Easy.

Weak eye: Active. You are aiming with lasers, for example. Easy, works fine.

Strong eye: Passive. You turn the RDS down a lot, flip the magnifier out of the way, and aim with the day sight. Higher sights help a lot, and this is why there are more very tall mounts for some Aimpoints in the last few years. Bottom 1/3rd cowitness is about the lowest you can get to work this way, and every mm counts, so my bottom maybe 1/4 cowitness is miles better. Not super easy to do prone, due to NOD/head position.

Here's a terrible photo I happened to take in my basement to demo this for an entirely other reason just last week. Yes, at the moment this was taken, I was aiming at something.



Now, I have seen dozens of J-arms broken by Marines/Cadets mostly, but never done it myself. Just don't be a Marine :) Grab the Rhino mount and rotate that up and down. I mean your fingers will wrap around the J arm, but you are not applying force to it really. NEVER just grab the NOD or J-arm alone, or they will snap off.

Note, this is on purpose. The NOD and your head are expensive and hard to repair, so the J-arm is plastic by design as the weak link that breaks away if you fall or get snagged in riser lines or so on. (Then, lanyard means you don't actually loose the NOD).

But they are cheap enough so yeah, skulk eBay and get a used one when you see it for anything under $30 (shipping included) just to have it around.
 

shoobe01

Regular Member
#15
...bc i have lpvo on all my rifles and kinda hard to use with nods I imagine.
Yes. You can at low magnification often get yourself a view of the illuminated dot/graticule good enough to aim, which due to [optics things I do not understand!] will allow you to diligently miss. Kind of a lot. Like, miss a full size target at 25 yards.

If you want to go passive with this setup, it is one reason that people run MRDS on top of their scope. Higher, so real easy to use, but two sight planes is beyond my abilities to utilize well, seems like something that will take a lot of training. FWIW, this is not just super secret squirrels; Germans keep issuing RDS/Reflex on top of magnified sights, since at least the G36. Not all for NVG use, but there it is anyway. Okay, drift off, back to work.
 
#16
As for a lanyard, I get the small ball bungees for tarps, and take the ball off. Attach a small length of paracord or whatever else you fancy to the housing and then connect the bungee to that (knot knowledge helps) I have several rolls of the industrial strength sticky velcro and attach that to the end of the bungee. From there it's as simple as slapping the velcro lead on my helmet.

As for which eye to use, I am also left handed and left I doinant. I have found I prefer to run the NOD on my right eye. Most of my NVG use is at work and the brass still won't let us run RMR's on our pistols. If I run my NVG on my non dominant eye I can shoot my pistol with both eyes open and use the NOD to see what I'm shooting while my left eye superimposes my sights. I shoot longguns the same way. When I got my NVG I didn't change out any of the risers on my long guns so I found that contorting my head to look through the optic with my NOD was super uncomfortable but I can get a normal cheek weld and just superimpose the dot with my NVG on my right eye. Lasers still make it easier though.

That being said my partner has a ton more NVG experience and he's all about running it on the dominant eye. I'm still fairly novice with my tubes
 
#17
Hey does anyone here have a website where i can get a LIF at, everywhere I’ve look they have been out or does anyone here have a spare they be willing to part with?