Light/ Laser setup.

[Hayden]

Hey all. Im in need of some advice. Just got done building a SOLGW/FCD 12.5. Its not my first build but it is my first build that is not geared toward shooting small critters at distance.

Im looking at lights and lasers and boy is this a rabbit hole. Im just not sure what to pick. Im looking at Surefire, Modlite and Arisaka set ups but when you start picking light heads, tail caps, buttons etc it becomes overwhelming. All of this is just expensive enough to not want to do it twice.
Laser: At this time, I dont run NV so a decent Visible Laser is all Im looking for. Sure a MAWL would be neat but the Price.....woooof.

So what did you pick for these 2 things and why.

Hayden.

PS. I will admit I have a CD OWL. I run it on a 10.5" 300 Blk that sits on the Headboard of the bed. Although I do Like it, you never see anyone running these. There's got to be a reason why.

 

[Default.mp3]

I am not aware of any good long gun vis-only lasers. Switchology to engage the laser in conjunction with any white light will probably be difficult, too, unless you use some kind of combo unit like the Streamlight HL-X, but the combo units tend to be a bit behind in the light department (and the vast majority are pistol oriented). As much as I love visible lasers (I won't carry a handgun without one if I can help it), I don't use have any visible-only units on my long guns simply because there are no real good options outside of the various MFALs.

If this is your first time, I would suggest a Modlite, as they have better aftermarket support and thus you have more ability to experiment. You're almost certainly not going to nail your preferred WML set-up the first time, because the optimal way is dependant on your shooting style, your techniques, and your lighting needs. That being said, a CD REIN would also come with most everything you'd need to experiment.

The OWL works fine, it's just too niche with its mounting.

 

[Matt Landfair]

An old Otal-A or similar were a good vis option.

 

[Brendog1776]

The OWL is a tank of a light. The only real downside is the amount of space it takes up. If you are going to go into nightvision, you may want to go with a smaller and lighter setup. The OWL takes up a lot of rail space and leaves very little room for IR and vis laser devices.

 

[Swobe1]

I have the first version of the CD REIN on my work rifle, an 11.5” gun. I love the light, but it’s a tank and the switch is very thick. I have a Modlite PLHv1 on my home gun with a Modbutton Lite switch. The modbutton is easier to activate, but it’s only a temporary on versus the CD switch which has a temp on switch and constant on click switch. I have not played with a new CD switch which is supposed to be easier to operate with a design change. If I had to buy a new one, I would probably go with a new REIN due to them slimming the size down and a redesigned switch. They have also been great to deal with the few times I’ve contacted them. That being said, I’ve never dealt with Modlite and will probably replace the PLHv1 with a v2 so I have both lights.

Probably doesn’t help answer your question, but I like both lights and don’t think you can go wrong either way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hayden]

Ok. I think Im going to go with the Modlite PLHv2.

So which Tailcap/Switch to get?

I think Im going to have to push this forward quite a bit. Im running a TBAC Ultra 7 Suppressor. Am I going to get shadow if I go with a regular mount?

Hayden.

 

[Default.mp3]

Ok. I think Im going to go with the Modlite PLHv2.

So which Tailcap/Switch to get?

I think Im going to have to push this forward quite a bit. Im running a TBAC Ultra 7 Suppressor. Am I going to get shadow if I go with a regular mount?

Hayden.

Tailcap, probably the SureFire DS00. Gives you both a port and clicky. As for tapeswitch, depends on how you tend to use your light, momentary or constant on. I would avoid the SureFire OEM tapes if possible, due to the fact that they're not designed for the current draw of the new generation of lights (including some of their own), and thus you'll have a mild reduction in output, though it's not a huge deal if you really like the SureFire switches (I use the SR07s and SR09s on some guns still because it's just not something I care that much about, given that WMLs for me are kinda secondary on long guns now that I have NODs).

You'll definitely have shadowing with a can. T-Rex Arms has a specialty light mount designed to cantilever the light as far forward as possible, manufactured for them by Arisaka (many light mounts are not designed to cantilever over the handguard too much). That being said, there are plenty of those that argue that shadow isn't a big deal, because you should be sweeping the area with the light, anyway, and with the push toward throw over flood on rifle lights these days, your hotspot will generally be clear of the can and you'll not necessarily lose too much corona to the can, with it really only eating up the relatively unuseable spill.