Knife Sharpener Suggestions.
- Thread starter TJ208
- Start date
ejh28
Newbie
This is good for the lesser quality pocket knives. I cut cardboard at work all the time, and this sharpens the blade up in a couple of minutes.
http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-106285...d=1437764841&sr=8-2&keywords=pocket+sharpener
For my good knives I use an actual kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Diamon...437764918&sr=8-9&keywords=knife+sharpener+kit
http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-106285...d=1437764841&sr=8-2&keywords=pocket+sharpener
For my good knives I use an actual kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Diamon...437764918&sr=8-9&keywords=knife+sharpener+kit
Grizzly
Regular Member
It might be over kill for what you are looking for but this is magic: http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Wet-Grinder-Kit/T10010. I use it for wood working tools and knives. Its no problem to have a edge good enough to shave with even on fairly cheap knives.
JD Williams
Member
Sharp maker and a work sharp for really messed up blades that require a new bevel or nicks removed. Depending on application, it will go to the strop last.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I use a Wicked Edge. It's extremely easy to use and pretty much idiot proof. I've tried a LOT of other stones and systems and this is by far my favorite. I can get a consistent edge very fast and it keeps me from FUBARing the knife in the process.
It's very pricey but if you sharpen a lot of knives it will be worth it in the long run.
http://www.wickededgeusa.com/product/pro-pack-i/
Ike
It's very pricey but if you sharpen a lot of knives it will be worth it in the long run.
http://www.wickededgeusa.com/product/pro-pack-i/
Ike
I agree with Ike. I've had several knives sharpened using the Wicked Edge sharpener and they always come out better than the factory edge. If you don't want to spend the $$ to get one I send my knives to Liberty Blade Works (check them out on Facebook). The guy that runs it uses a Wicked Edge and turns out great edges for really cheap (like less than $10 per blade).
Default.mp3
Established
Note that Wicked Edge is on Promotive, if you qualify for that.
cyberjed
Newbie
To get very good edges with minimum time investment (both in learning to sharpen and actual sharpening). I've found the following advice very useful:
http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/printpost.php?tid/776367/
I've used a bunch of options from $300+ sharpening systems to oil stones from Bass Pro. Wish I would have started (and ended) with the suggestions in the above post. Hope this helps.
http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/printpost.php?tid/776367/
I've used a bunch of options from $300+ sharpening systems to oil stones from Bass Pro. Wish I would have started (and ended) with the suggestions in the above post. Hope this helps.
Tactical22
Newbie
I've settled on a combination of a Lansky Puck, Smith's Coarse/Fine 4" diamond stone, and a sharpening steel on everything from my axes and hatchets to kukri and field knives to the ones I use to skin and process deer to my EDC. I've used setups as fancy as a high end Tormek, and they work, but I can get 85-90% as good of edge much faster and cheaper with what I described above, and it is portable, powerless, and hassle-free.
I used a Smith coarse/fine diamond stone, the one that stores in the handle to sharpen the shit out of my entire flight's knives. Not that I really know what the hell i'm doing but I had the basic idea down, and most of our E-2s through E-6s had no fucking clue. One TSgt had a CRKT M16 on it's second deployment which was now so dull it might conceivably have killed a pancake. After I was done it was at least usable, if not shaving sharp.
For touch up work they're fine. For "real" work, i've used a Spyderco a few times and it did well. The Wicked Edge looks interesting.
For touch up work they're fine. For "real" work, i've used a Spyderco a few times and it did well. The Wicked Edge looks interesting.
SCSU74
Regular Member
WE is probably the easiest to use, the biggest challenge is finding the true sharpening angle (apex). Using a sharpie makes it a lot easier, just need to make sure to hit the actual apex and not high or low. For regular maintenance a strop reduces the need to sharpen with stones quite a bit, unless you nick the blade good a quality strop with a few different compounds is usually enough to keep the edge sharp/serviceable.
For my Emerson's I find a diamond stone is very fast for putting a working edge on the knife if I don't want to haul the WE out. I again use a sharpie to make sure I'm hitting the apex. It really depends on how confident you are freehand, WE takes all the guess work out, I record the settings so next time I pre-adjust it and go to work. For my more expensive knives (Strider's, Hinderer, CRK etc.) I typically send them out to be reground and just have him write the settings down when he sends them back.
For my Emerson's I find a diamond stone is very fast for putting a working edge on the knife if I don't want to haul the WE out. I again use a sharpie to make sure I'm hitting the apex. It really depends on how confident you are freehand, WE takes all the guess work out, I record the settings so next time I pre-adjust it and go to work. For my more expensive knives (Strider's, Hinderer, CRK etc.) I typically send them out to be reground and just have him write the settings down when he sends them back.
Boxy
Newbie
I have converged on using a simple DMT Red and Blue whetstone (2" x 6") for all my knives. I have tried various apparatus which does not work for all knife bevels. An exception is the Spyderco triangle type for serrated blades. Blue is medium for taking down a very dull edge and Red is fine for maintenance. You may use water to change the abrasion and clean the metal from the stone itself. Not fragile like ceramic sharpeners. Link is here https://www.dmtsharp.com.