Corrosion Resistant Maritime Handgun

[Papabear2547]

I've been spending much more time around water this summer and have carried my highly corrosion resistant Spyderco Salt folding knife. This had me start thinking about firearms that are also corrosion resistant, for backpackers or outdoorsmen in humid area's, or gentlemen who like to spend time fishing or on a boat. Glocks are the typical choice; as they utilize a lot of polymer, have fewer parts, and a Tenifer treatment on the slide/barrel. Glocks are also fairly inexpensive. I think a maritime semi automatic pistol makes sense in a military context, the HK MK23 also had corrosion resistant coatings applied to internal parts, and the Navy and Coast Guard have utilized the Sig p228/9/6 for quite some time. The springs in those firearms are going to be a weak point though, especially in the magazines. I'm sure they also require regular maintenance as well. I was hoping for something a little more low maintenance though, and although the recoil spring could handle a healthy coating of grease, the striker spring/channel and magazine spring would probably not fare too well. I'm now thinking the Taurus Ultralite Series of revolvers would be my top pick in a civilian context. Or a scandium/titanium S&W. Manual action firearms seem to do better around water. Maritime shotguns made of aluminum/stainless or corrosion resistant coatings seem to have been up to the task. The Taurus 856 UL is lightweight and compact for convenient carry, 6 round capacity, and a relatively simple design with only 38 total parts. The stainless UL models are made of corrosion resistant aluminum and stainless steel, springs and internal parts can have a coating of grease applied without negatively impacting function, unlike its' semi automatic contemporaries. What are your thoughts?

 

[pointblank4445]

While I don't live near a saltwater environment, I am unfortunate enough to be one of those types with special skin/oil that I corrode and discolor everything I touch. I can rust a blued steel gun with a harsh stare and moderately protected guns will bear rust from where I've handled it in 24-48 hours depending on ambient humidity.

The 2 standout guns I've had working patrol were easily the old-school Euro tennifer Glock Gen 3 and whatever finish HK uses on the commercial guns. I remember my old Sig mags rusting like a mother, ditto for the stainless MBX's.

Since you mention the MK23 SOCOM, it should be known that there are different spec differences between the contract SOCOMS and the current commercially available MK23's in the presence/absence of the chrome-lined barrel, the actual finish, and (if I'm not mistaken) polished vs. finished barrel hoods (which I may be thinking of the Expert/Elite changes). Regardless there are subtle differences that keep the nerds paying high $$$ for certain specs. Travel that rabbit hole as you wish. (HK nerd rant: OFF)

Despite the titanium/scandium exotic S&W alloys, S&W has never had good corrosion protection on their metal parts IMHO.

You seem to already be aware that ultimately care is required. Were it me, I'd probably lean on a design with decent finishes like the aforementioned HK's or Glocks but also could still function well just fine for a few hours if they took a saltwater dip, got flushed with fresh water, and then could still be fine for a few hours until they can be serviced/cleaned/re-lubed.
Bonus for the Glock as they are far easier to field strip and are far more replaceable.

 

[Papabear2547]

While I don't live near a saltwater environment, I am unfortunate enough to be one of those types with special skin/oil that I corrode and discolor everything I touch. I can rust a blued steel gun with a harsh stare and moderately protected guns will bear rust from where I've handled it in 24-48 hours depending on ambient humidity.

The 2 standout guns I've had working patrol were easily the old-school Euro tennifer Glock Gen 3 and whatever finish HK uses on the commercial guns. I remember my old Sig mags rusting like a mother, ditto for the stainless MBX's.

Since you mention the MK23 SOCOM, it should be known that there are different spec differences between the contract SOCOMS and the current commercially available MK23's in the presence/absence of the chrome-lined barrel, the actual finish, and (if I'm not mistaken) polished vs. finished barrel hoods (which I may be thinking of the Expert/Elite changes). Regardless there are subtle differences that keep the nerds paying high $$$ for certain specs. Travel that rabbit hole as you wish. (HK nerd rant: OFF)

Despite the titanium/scandium exotic S&W alloys, S&W has never had good corrosion protection on their metal parts IMHO.

You seem to already be aware that ultimately care is required. Were it me, I'd probably lean on a design with decent finishes like the aforementioned HK's or Glocks but also could still function well just fine for a few hours if they took a saltwater dip, got flushed with fresh water, and then could still be fine for a few hours until they can be serviced/cleaned/re-lubed.
Bonus for the Glock as they are far easier to field strip and are far more replaceable.

Great points! Ideally I'd like something as low maintenance as a spyderco salt but there's obviously no free lunch. I was hoping that greasing the internals of a revolver would do the trick but maybe not. Sounds like something I should experiment with though.

 

[pointblank4445]

Great points! Ideally I'd like something as low maintenance as a spyderco salt but there's obviously no free lunch. I was hoping that greasing the internals of a revolver would do the trick but maybe not. Sounds like something I should experiment with though.

I'm not heavy into the wheelguns, and know even less about the internal workings....I just shoot the few J-frames I got. Come to think of it my 351-C has held up well...nothing major in terms of corrosion. My old 651-1 kit gun on the other hand...pretty much cured me of stainless Smith revolvers

 

[shoobe01]

...You seem to already be aware that ultimately care is required. Were it me, I'd probably lean on a design with decent finishes like the aforementioned HK's or Glocks but also could still function well just fine for a few hours if they took a saltwater dip, got flushed with fresh water, and then could still be fine for a few hours until they can be serviced/cleaned/re-lubed.
Bonus for the Glock as they are far easier to field strip and are far more replaceable.

I do not do saltwater and only rarely get things soaked to the point I have to deal with it, but this is still to me the key I have encountered from being in a talcum powder dust area, falling in mud, and so on.

Doesn't have to be Glock specifically but DO get something you know you can get apart and into enough that you WILL do that, instead of thinking after a few months it is all too hard to do the Friday evening strip and clean, then it gets dirty, rusty maybe, etc.

I'd avoid revolvers for this specifically. If sealed, sure, but way way too many holes into the fussy internals for me to trust simply packing with grease etc.

Spring tech has improved and many/most guns now have stainless springs. Now, as mentioned there are many levels of stainless/inox and for their spring features they cannot be "as stainless" so CAN be a bit more prone to rust, but my experience in the past decade or so is that everything else can be rusty but springs will not be. This is new; when I am refurbing old guns, the springs are often the worst bit.

Regardless, I might also buy key springs by the 10 pack and replace them on a regular basis both to replace them generally and to force you to get inside things like firing pin/striker channels on a regular and much higher than factory recommended rate (say, twice a year). Consider this level of maintenance when shopping; the classic Sigs for example (220, 226...) have crosspins to be pressed out and replaced to service the firing pin and spring.

 

[TheBigDog65]

I spent most of my life and all of my LE career on the Northern California coast. I used and carried a lot of blued steel guns as well as stainless and coated stainless revolvers, semi autos and long guns. To be absolutely honest any gun in regions where a nearby ocean influences the climate and weather commands regular PM and care when it gets wet. But really any moist environment, salt or fresh, can present issues. Got to make sure they get wiped down before being put away. I had a checklist level process for how to deal with my service sidearm after a shift in the rain... and remarkably I had virtually no issues with corrosion on any of my handguns or long guns. When I left NorCal for the bone dry high desert of Nevada the amount of time I was spending on PM dropped dramatically.

To be honest resistance to the elements was a major reason a lot of cops back in the day had their revolvers hard chromed. Armalloy was one very popular coating method / brand, and I worked with a number of guys who had that done. Of course with stainless revolvers there is no need... if one pays attention and takes care of the gun.

As an example I have an S&W Model 65 in my collection that came from an LE agency in Minnesota.... with 10,000 freshwater lakes in the state the humidity is real, as is cold, rain, snow and ice in the winter. The gun had Hogue rubber monogrips on it when I took delivery and those grips are notorious for retaining moisture. As result the frame in many places under the grips showed pronounced corrosion in many places. Being stainless steel it was mainly flaking, but there was some pitting present in a couple of places.

As was noted in reply by others, a lot of modern magazines use stainless springs. Sig has used stainless springs throughout for as long as I can remember. My late 90's P226 and its magazines are all stainless springs. Glock, M&P and Sig all use stainless and then coated slides. All seem to be quite durable and also seem to require less PM. For long guns some manner of phospate coating, like Parkerizing, is the best way to go. All you have to do is oil the surface periodically, then keep the gun wiped down with use, and a phosphate coating will be virtually indestructible. Modern ceramic coatings like Cerakote are not even close to the level of protection that a hard plate or a phosphate coating can give.