Business/Suit and Shoes

Change51

Amateur
Low pro PSD work in a business to higher class event CONUS/OCONUS

For those that have done the work, what brands/companies/tailors have you found that is flexible/durable enough with carry?

What casual dress shoes have you found to be most comfortable as far as if you need to end up moving at the hurriedly pace?

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275RLTW

Regular Member
I've had a few made at Men's warehouse. Exceptional customer service at each store Ive been to. While the markup on smaller items is outrageous (shirts, ties, etc...) their tailoring is worth the extra penny. Getting I've had mag pouches sewn in, fit for armor, internal pockets in pants, cable routing ports, and more done by them. Never a funny look, and always done correctly and on time. Having all my measurements and modifications stored in their system allows me to pick one up in any city I'm in that has one. That may seem like a small issues until you have to wear a certain color/cut for an event and need it within 24 hrs. While also a bit pricy for OCONUS work, if you want to blend in as a businessman then you can't do it in a $20 street market jacket.

Shoes: get what is comfortable and fits the part. You're going to be on them all day. Know how to run in them with dress socks on.
 

Erick Gelhaus

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Like 275, I have had great experiences with Men's Wearhouse in a couple different locations. No where near as good results with a couple higher-end men's wear stores.

While not super dressy, I am quite happy with a couple pair of Rockports - plain toe lace up style. They have fit in academic, legal, and professional settings. More importantly, they handle the orto inserts I'm stuck in these days.
 

Orionz06

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Vendor
Allen Edmonds sells some great shoes and dress boots that are nearly as comfortable as casual shoes...AFTER they're broken in. They use actual cork footbeds, and it appears to really make a difference; check outlets or their "Shoe Barn" for discounted pricing.


- Jake
This. I used to think otherwise and wasted money on Ecco and others but they look good, feel good, and will last. Allen Edmonds is now the floor for me for shoes knowing what spending a little money can get. I've gotten a few pair of Alden's that now broken in could work as well but AE will be a few hundred less.


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MrMurphy

Regular Member
If you want 'active businesswear", Ministry of Supply suits apparently hold up pretty damned well. Like....the designer went and ran a half marathon or maybe a full in one, in one of his suits with running shoes just to see how they'd do. I've seriously considered them for whenever I get around to moving to the "dressy" investigations side of the LE biz.
 

vcdgrips

Newbie
I say this as a practicing atty, former Fortune 100 sales guy and Macy's/ Dillard's sales guy from the way back. Buy the best stuff you can afford. Buy suits and slacks that are 100% wool consistent with the season. Stick with the classics in terms of cut and color. You can always distinguish yourself with a great tie, pocket square and well shined shoes.

Shoes: the reccomendations below presume a rubber soled shoe for maximum ability to run, fight etc.
Re Shoes: Solid-Rockport, Excellent -Ecco, Superlative-Mephisto. An alternative would be to buy a quality all leather shoe like an Allan Edmond and have it resoled with a Vibram or similar rubber sole. Excellent used examples of these shoes can often be had a great prices off of e-Bay.
 

AresGear_Jake

Stiffer Is Better
Vendor
...An alternative would be to buy a quality all leather shoe like an Allan Edmond and have it resoled with a Vibram or similar rubber sole. Excellent used examples of these shoes can often be had a great prices off of e-Bay.

My Allen Edmonds all came with rubber soles. If you do resole a shoe, be careful; putting too stiff a sole on can ruin a shoe.


- Jake
 

Taylor H

Newbie
Allen Edmond's really is a great pair on shoes. I am actually wearing the Park Avenue Oxblood. They have a superb fit and will last a life time if you properly care for them. Alden is a slight cut above Allen Edmonds but, you won't be able to have a rubber sole. I have had multiple pairs of each for years and have no stitching, scuffing, disintegrating, ect. As much as I hate rubber soles your requirements would need them. The leather outsole can become slippery on buffed tile floors. I always suggest getting your feet measured by a professional. A loose fitting leather shoe will become uncomfortable and unforgiving on blisters. If you're going to get into style, captoe oxford is always a nice look while dressing up.
 

Orionz06

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Vendor
Alden is a slight cut above Allen Edmonds but, you won't be able to have a rubber sole.

I have Alden shoes with rubber sole, their commando. They also have other Vibram soles, all depends on who you buy from. Most of their staples can be had with options that will have leather. Narrow to a style and I can help locate.
 

AresGear_Jake

Stiffer Is Better
Vendor
And, of course, you could always have a rubber halfsole and heel glued to leather-soled shoes. Like building an AR or a 1911, there are ways to achieve almost anything you want.


- Jake
 

DocGKR

Dr.Ballistics
Staff member
Moderator
Specific recommendations are tough, as individual anatomy plays a huge role. Find a suit cut and shoe that fit, then stick with those models. A good tailor is essential. For suits, whenever possible go with made to measure (MTM)--it costs a bit more, but the suit will typically fit better and can offer improved esthetics. Avoid cheap fused suits and stick with fully canvased ones. Navy, charcoal, grey, and blue are good starting points for color; tans and browns can also be innovative--black suits are not ideal. Solid colors, along with light pinstripes/chalk strips, subtle plaids, as well as windowpanes are all useful patterns. A 3-piece suit is always a good choice, as it gives you more options; also don't be afraid of nicely executed double breasted suits--especially if you carry AIWB. An open blazer or sport coat can work better for folks who OWB carry in the 3-5 o'clock area.

For an off-the-rack (OTR) suit purchase, probably the best bang for the buck right now is Canali ; get the 13xxx model (Sienna) if you are more muscular (like a running back) and go with the 14xxx (Firenza) model if you are leaner (like a triathlete or middle distance runner). Mainline Zegna (not the fused Z-Zegna) is also a nice option. For lower cost, Samuelsohn makes some decent suits, as do a few other vendors. In general, for higher end OTC suits, items like Brioni, Canali (Sienna cut), and Tom Ford (Windsor cut) work for more muscular guys, while Canali (Firenza cut) Isaia, Kiton, Tom Ford (O'Connor cut) and Zegna work for leaner folks. There are obviously numerous other superb manufacturers, but this brief listing is just mentioning some quality options that are commonly found in this area. If you are in London, Paris, or Naples, you will have a host of other available choices.

Eton has some good options on OTR shirts and Hamilton has some great MTM ones. For a quick reference on shirt colors, I typically wear white shirts about 50% of the time followed by blue (solids, stripes and checks) 30% of the time, with more infrequent wear of lavender, grey, pink, tans/browns, red/maroon, ecru, yellow, and greens, the remaining 20% of occasions.

For shoes you definitely want some sort of rubber layer for traction, I use the relatively inexpensive Ecco's every day at work, since I can stand in them for 12-18 hours, they handle the muck, detritus, and blood from surgical procedures pretty well, allow rapid movement like running shoes, and don't need much break in. Mephisto is similar. For nicer shoes, you can run the gamut from the more traditional Allen Edmunds, Alden, Crocket and Jones, to the more exotic shoes like DiBianco, Gravati, Paraboot, Santoni, on up to pinnacles of footwear like Bontoni, Corthay, Edward Green, Gaziano & Girling, John Lobb, etc...

Bloomingdales and Nordstroms carry a few of these lines, while more are at Barneys, Nieman Marcus, and Saks. Specialty stores like Stanley Korshak and the Mitchell Stores (Wilkes Bashford, Marios, Mitchells, Richards) will also have an excellent selection, as do the various boutiques from each manufacturer.

Southnarc is a great resource for higher end clothing purchases for armed professionals.
 
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Don't forget to finish it off with either a Mean Gene leather Aegis belt or one of Jake's new bio-thane belts. I believe the new Ares belt is thinner and may fit through a suit's belt loops a little easier.
 
Southnarc is a great resource for higher end clothing purchases for armed professionals.

The man is a taint-stabbing clothes horse of the highest order.

Doc's recommendations are spot-on. Some of the accessory items can be purchased on Ebay for a substantial discount but, as always, you run into issues with counterfeits.

If you need to truly look the part of a Wall Street type, the cheap suits, shoes, and rubber belts won't cut it. ESPECIALLY with the female of the species. People who live in that part of society know what their own look and behave like. They can spot "us" a mile away. Don't look like "us."
 

AresGear_Jake

Stiffer Is Better
Vendor
Another thing I've learned is that the right tailor makes a $800 suit look like a $1600 suit...and without the right tailor, a $1600 suit looks like a $800 suit. The in-house seamstress at the retail store is almost never the right tailor; find the old guy in town who's been tailoring since Hitler was in power.

Anyone in/near Cincinnati, I HIGHLY recommend Romualdo's, in Madeira. Romualdo himself is amazing.

Note - Even the best tailor can't fix a shit suit.

- Jake
 
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DocGKR

Dr.Ballistics
Staff member
Moderator
This video about Bontoni shoes (very nice, as well as comfortable) was well done:
 

MrMurphy

Regular Member
If you are on the continent, I've been very pleased with Pal Zileri. Probably in the mid grade range, but fits well and noticeably better quality than any typical stuff over here thats under 2 grand or so.

My problem is it was sized in Italy in 2008 without any hardware on, now I'm 25 lbs heavier and carrying hardware....

So a new suit or two is in the works the next couple years.

And on Rockports, they're basically disposable dress shoes. Won't pass in the Fortune 500 crowd, but can be worn with a suit and ran with. I sprinted most of two airport terminals in mine once with zero issues. If you can afford better, do so, but Rockports can stand in as emergency spares, etc.
 
I am just a white-collar professional but have found my Allen Edmonds are great. They can sell them with rubber soles on them for good traction. I am very hard on shoes due to my foot size but find that they hold up very well. I am also in and out of jails/hospitals/nursing homes (i.e. places where various fluids are on the tile floor) and appreciate the extra traction. EDIT- if you shop their sales you can get good deals, but for me it is worth it to buy a Made in USA product.
 
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