Lube! How? What? When? What environments?

Unobtanium

Regular Member
I've been using geissele/alg go juice. It works near identical to slip 2000 ewl except that I've found it to have much more corrosion resistance.
 

CameronBenz

Newbie
I've used all sorts of stuff over the years. Tetra's oil and grease, Weapon Shield, CLP, Slide Glide, and even ATF. I also sometimes clean with non-chlorinated brake cleaner (on the rare occasions I clean stuff).

I'm with Roland in the free lubes are the best lubes camp for the most part. On a .45 ACP 1911, I generally prefer to use Slide Glide on the rails as it stays where I put it but it is heavy enough that it can cause issues with 9mm 1911s cycling.

Never had Slip come into my possession. I have some Lucas on hand to try. If it comes down to it, I wouldn't have an issue with pulling oil off the dipstick of a car in a pinch.

I'm probably not past the point of using ATF either as I always have it on hand due to the transmission and transfer case requirements in my TJ Wrangler.
 

SCSU74

Regular Member
Use: LE patrol
Environment: MN (close to Canada eh) down to -50 in winter with wind, up to around 100 in summer
Cleaner: Hilco lube wipes (got them free when I worked for Fort Worth PD, haven't found a better cleaner since)
Lube: EWL on everything but my Sigs, they get EWG. I clean pistols monthly or after shooting whichever is sooner (try to shoot at least once a month). Carbines get EWL on the bolt once a month. Sigs get EWG on the rails and as described by Florrk on Sigforum: http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/908103701
 

Dr. Cornwallis

Regular Member
I live in Florida, so, mostly hot as balls all year, occasionally it gets nice, very rarely it gets "cold." I use Red Line 30W full synthetic race oil in my AR-15 and I use TW-25B on my Glock 19.

I used to use Royal Purple 10-30 motor oil but gave Frog Lube a try. It smells good and I've never had any issues with it, it seems slippery. That being said, I quit using it as it didn't seems to hold up as well as synthetic motor oil.

I went back to using full synthetic except this time I decided to go with Red Line 30 wt race oil.

Why?

- Red line publishes all the technical data of their lubricants, and the profile of their 30wt race oil exceeds many of the properties of some dedicated firearms lubricants.

- it's really expensive motor oil, but dirt cheap firearms Lube.

- It's slippery

- honestly I feel like the inside of a vehicle motor, particularly high performance race motors, probably require a lot more out of a lubricant than a firearm does.

- it's slippery shit, don't over think it.


I like TW-25B in my pistol because it's slippery and it stays put in my carry gun, even in hot Florida summers. I also like it because it works and I bought a giant tub years ago.



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Joe _K

Established
Been trying out Ikea brand oil for wooden cutting boards.
- Cheap, 1L bottle for under $5
- Super slippery, doesn't run off.
- Stays in place.
- Thicker than Slip 2000 EWL.
- Thinner than 10W- 30.
- So far hasn't gummed up in the cold.
- Haven't got the gun hot enough to see how well it handles heat.


Velocitas, Opprimere,
Violentia Operandi
 

Bill Blowers

Sausage Six Actual
VIP
I put gun oil in my car. See how dumb that sounds? Gun oil is purpose built for guns. Motor oil is for motors. I don't understand the need to swap the two with one exception. The exception is I need gun lube right now, and the ONLY thing available is motor oil, cooking spray, Vagisil or whatever.
 

Joe _K

Established
I put gun oil in my car. See how dumb that sounds? Gun oil is purpose built for guns. Motor oil is for motors. I don't understand the need to swap the two with one exception. The exception is I need gun lube right now, and the ONLY thing available is motor oil, cooking spray, Vagisil or whatever.
If gun oil worked as good, or better in my automobile then motor oil, and I could get it for free or really cheap then my Toyota would be cruising along with Slip 2000 EWL in the crankcase.

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Violentia Operandi
 

ggammell

Does not pass up an opportunity to criticize P&S.
Been trying out Ikea brand oil for wooden cutting boards.
- Cheap, 1L bottle for under $5
- Super slippery, doesn't run off.
- Stays in place.
- Thicker than Slip 2000 EWL.
- Thinner than 10W- 30.
- So far hasn't gummed up in the cold.
- Haven't got the gun hot enough to see how well it handles heat.


Velocitas, Opprimere,
Violentia Operandi

If you haven't really tested it against a hot gun why say you use it? It would seem to me that before proclaiming to the world you're using something designed to condition wood that you've actually proven it can do what you want it to.
 

Joe _K

Established
If you haven't really tested it against a hot gun why say you use it? It would seem to me that before proclaiming to the world you're using something designed to condition wood that you've actually proven it can do what you want it to.
Touche. See above edited post.

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Violentia Operandi
 

Joe _K

Established
Currently TRYING OUT Ikea brand oil for wooden cutting boards.
- Cheap, 1L bottle for under $5
- Super slippery, doesn't run off.
- Stays in place.
- Thicker than Slip 2000 EWL.
- Thinner than 10W- 30.
- So far hasn't gummed up in the cold.
- Haven't got the gun hot enough to see how well it handles heat.


Velocitas, Opprimere,
Violentia Operandi



Velocitas, Opprimere,
Violentia Operandi
 

Dr. Cornwallis

Regular Member
Been trying out Ikea brand oil for wooden cutting boards.
- Cheap, 1L bottle for under $5
- Super slippery, doesn't run off.
- Stays in place.
- Thicker than Slip 2000 EWL.
- Thinner than 10W- 30.
- So far hasn't gummed up in the cold.
- Haven't got the gun hot enough to see how well it handles heat.


Velocitas, Opprimere,
Violentia Operandi

The big thing I see wrong with this is that oil for a wooden cutting board has nothing in common with oil for a gun.

In many ways a gun and internal combustion engine have a lot in common... heat, shear forces, corrosion, Carbon etc, this they would be designed to do similar things.

A good motor oil will:

- resist burn off
- resist Carbon build up
- resist corrosion
- resist wear

These are all things that a good gun oil needs to do as well. While I personally don't believe that there is a huge (if any difference) between oils used in certain applications, in other applications they can very immensely. An internal combustion engine and a firearm have similarities, a cutting board and a firearm have absolutely none. Comparing the two is like comparing apples and hammers.


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Joe _K

Established
The big thing I see wrong with this is that oil for a wooden cutting board has nothing in common with oil for a gun.

In many ways a gun and internal combustion engine have a lot in common... heat, shear forces, corrosion, Carbon etc, this they would be designed to do similar things.

A good motor oil will:

- resist burn off
- resist Carbon build up
- resist corrosion
- resist wear

These are all things that a good gun oil needs to do as well. While I personally don't believe that there is a huge (if any difference) between oils used in certain applications, in other applications they can very immensely. An internal combustion engine and a firearm have similarities, a cutting board and a firearm have absolutely none. Comparing the two is like comparing apples and hammers.


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If it's stupid and it works, it's not stupid...unless it's full retard. Like I said I'm trying/testing it out. If it's retarded and no workie I will let you know.
Btw, I normally use Mpro-7, SLIP-2000, or regular old CLP, I was cleaning one of my Glocks a few weeks ago and got bored and thought I would try something different.

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Violentia Operandi
 

PatMcG

Member
I'd be worried what that wood oil leaves behind when it burns off.


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philpac33

Newbie
I'm a sucker for "the new hotness" in the lube game. I have a container with at least a dozen different gun lubes, probably more; I'd use one for 6 months, make note of its general performance, and move on to the next one. Until recently I had settled in using Fireclean for the last couple years; it's a very good product(if not overpriced and in a leaky bottle) and have no issues using it on my guns. Knowing the reputation of Bill Geissele and having 100% satisfaction with everything Geissele and ALG I've put my hands on, I was intrigued when ALG introduced Go-Juice; when they added 0000 Very Thin Grease to the Go-Juice line, I had to bite. I'd been thinking about a few specific applications that might benefit more from a grease than traditional gun oils. The only grease I had in my lube bin was a small tube of Militec-1 Synthetic Metal Conditioner; it was fine but not what I had hoped. Fast forward to Go-Juice and 0000 Very Thin Grease- used in combination, this is my favorite lubrication for my Glocks and ARs(the only guns I've shot lately). I'm using the Go-Juice everywhere traditional lubes are applied and 0000 Very Thin Grease on the Glock rails and a dab between the trigger bar and connector; I'm also using a thin bead of VTG on the carrier rails and around the cam pin. Not only is lubricity high but the VTG stays put better than any gun lube. 0000 Very Thin Grease is about the consistency of hair gel but instead of being sticky it's slick as snot. Who knows what I'll be using in a year but right now I'm very happy with the new products from ALG. I apologize in advance that my first post on P&S was on something as derpy as gun lube but I had to share.
 

Wake27

Regular Member
Wasn't fireclean proven to be chemically identical to crisco vegetable oil?


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No, that was a rumor that turned out to be false. I swear by the stuff too.


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MisterHelix

Newbie
For my "regular" AR's and Glocks, I don't really care/don't think it matters much which lube. Breakfree CLP if fine, Mobil 1 is fine.

For higher volume, suppressed shooting, it starts to matter more for me. Some burn off, some leave a mess of gummy carbon infused crap. Fire clean seemed to help some, but I'm gradually shifting to NP3 coatings with a minimal amount of CLP for those guns (as budget allows).
 
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